PMI Explained: What Private Mortgage Insurance Costs and When It Cancels
Private mortgage insurance protects your lender, not you — and you pay for it when you put down less than 20%. Here's what it costs, the federal law that forces it to cancel, and how to get it off your statement as early as possible.
Written with AI assistance; every figure is checked against our calculators and primary sources, and reviewed by Ethan Ginsberg before publishing.
The bottom line
PMI typically runs 0.3%–1.5% of the loan per year — roughly $75–$375 a month on a $300,000 mortgage — until your equity hits the cancellation threshold.
PMI Explained: What Private Mortgage Insurance Costs and When It Cancels
The single most misunderstood line on a mortgage estimate is PMI — private mortgage insurance. The misunderstanding usually goes: "I'm paying for insurance, so I must be the one it protects." You're not. PMI protects the lender if you stop making payments. You pay the premium; the bank gets the coverage.
You're required to carry it when you buy a home with less than 20% down on a conventional loan, because a smaller down payment is statistically riskier for the lender. The good news: it's not permanent, and federal law spells out exactly when it has to go away.
What it costs
PMI typically runs 0.3% to 1.5% of the original loan amount per year, billed monthly as part of your mortgage payment. Where you land in that range depends mostly on your credit score and your down payment size — lower credit and a smaller down payment push you toward the high end.
On a $300,000 loan, that's roughly $75 to $375 a month — real money that buys you nothing except access to the loan. A practical example at the middle of the range:
| Loan amount | PMI rate | Annual PMI | Monthly |
|---|---|---|---|
| $300,000 | 0.5% | $1,500 | ~$125 |
| $300,000 | 1.0% | $3,000 | ~$250 |
That's why getting PMI cancelled as early as legally allowed is one of the higher-return moves available to a new homeowner — every month early is pure savings.
The law that forces it to cancel
This is the part worth memorizing. The federal Homeowners Protection Act sets three triggers tied to your loan-to-value (LTV) ratio — how much you still owe versus the home's original value:
- You can request cancellation at 80% LTV. Once your balance drops to 80% of the original value — by paying down principal on schedule, paying extra, or a combination — you have the right to ask your servicer to drop PMI. You usually have to ask in writing and be current on payments.
- It automatically terminates at 78% LTV. Your servicer is legally required to cancel PMI once your balance reaches 78% of the original value, based on the original amortization schedule — no request needed, as long as you're current.
- Final termination at the loan midpoint. If you somehow haven't hit 78% by the halfway point of the loan term (for example because you fell behind), PMI must end then anyway.
"Original value" generally means the lower of your purchase price or the appraised value at closing.
The early-exit move most people miss
Those triggers run off the original value and the scheduled payoff. But if your home has appreciated, or you've made extra principal payments, you may have crossed 80% equity far sooner than the amortization schedule shows.
In that case you can ask your servicer to cancel based on current value — but you'll typically need to pay for a new appraisal to prove it, and the servicer may apply stricter equity thresholds (often requiring 20–25% equity for an appreciation-based cancellation). On a fast-appreciating home, the appraisal fee can pay for itself in a few months of skipped premiums.
A few things that speed it up:
- Extra principal payments shrink the balance ahead of schedule. Even modest extra payments can pull the 80% date forward by months.
- A refinance out of a high-PMI loan can eliminate it if you now have 20%+ equity — though only worth it if the new rate and closing costs pencil out. Check that with the Mortgage Payment calculator before assuming it's a win.
- Keep records. Know your original value, your current balance, and your 80%/78% target numbers so you can act the moment you qualify.
PMI vs. FHA's MIP — not the same thing
One important caveat: the rules above apply to conventional loans. FHA loans carry their own version called MIP (mortgage insurance premium), and on most modern FHA loans with low down payments, MIP lasts the life of the loan — it doesn't auto-cancel at 78%. The common escape is to refinance into a conventional loan once you have enough equity. If you're choosing between loan types, that difference is worth factoring in.
What to do
- Find your original value and your PMI rate on your closing documents — that sets your 80% and 78% target balances.
- Mark the date your scheduled balance hits 80%, and send a written cancellation request as soon as you're there.
- If your home has appreciated meaningfully, ask your servicer about an appraisal-based cancellation — the fee often pays for itself fast.
- If you're on an FHA loan, plan your eventual refinance-to-conventional as the route out of lifetime MIP.
PMI is a temporary toll for getting into a home with less than 20% down — not a life sentence. Knowing the three triggers turns it from a mystery line item into a date on your calendar.
This is educational only and not financial advice. PMI rates, cancellation procedures, and appraisal requirements vary by lender and loan type — confirm the specifics with your mortgage servicer. The dollar figures are illustrative; your premium depends on your loan, credit, and down payment.
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